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Monday, June 27, 2011

“... Maheshwari-ge namane... blah blah” blared the stereo systems of the white bus at 5 am on the 25th of June 2011, rudely and deafeningly shaking awake the 22 souls who had settled for a deep sleep inside it. We had reached Kalathigiri informs the driver, with considerable glee (from having jerked us out from our sleep, I presume :| ). And hence began the two day trek in Kemmangundi...
Kalahatti falls is very beautiful, all the more so if you visit it in the June-July season when the coffee plantations (interspersed with tall trees) that you need to walk through come alive after the ceaseless drizzles  that the place gets in this season. The trek to this beautiful falls begins from the Veerabhadra temple, a legendary temple supposed to haveIMG_2603 been built during the Vijayanagar times. We followed the water stream that flows in front of this temple uphill for a few kilometers to reach the Kalahatti falls, which is made by waters that flow across the supposedly medicinal Bhadra forests when they fall from a staggering height of about 400 feet from the ground. The falls is quite unlike any other that one may have visited in the sense that it has the water falling in a weird way, quite like streams of watery needles being shot down.
We trekked in fairly good time, considering that most of the 22 member team were near novices. The climb was fun, but falls was certainly the cream of it all. Most of us got into the water despite the bone-chilling temperature of the water and the sharp rocks that the water fell onto. Nithya and Vinay, I remember, never got into water. Guys, you really missed it! Trust me! Jinu had forewarned that going shirtless was a bad idea, but there were many brave guys who experimented that all the same. The small fishes in the pool of water below, the rainbow, the winds that increased the pressure of the fallDSC02606 s, the beautiful green spread of trees in the front... Well, bless nature!
We took an alternative route downhill and since it was slippery, most of us slipped and slided, much to the amusement and entertainment of the rest of us (I saw Sravanthi fall and do a small slide down... was hilarious :D )! And then, a few of us folks (Mahesh, Vishnu, Yogesh, Sreeni, Sravanthi, etc) who were going ahead happily got lost and took some other route and ended up reaching the base earlier than the others. I heard the other team again got split and all of them came down in different batches. A heavy tasty lunch (and multiple cups of tea, in Mayuri's case) later, we found ourselves on the way to Kemmangundi.
Kemmangundi dormitory. Looks fairly like a cross between ancient cottages and recent guest houses and is covered with so much moss, one could say it was nearly camouflaged! We reached the dorms at around 3 pm, and I suppose most guys just hit the bed. Sra, Jinu and I went for a casual stroll, and it was fun. We were just in time to start to the Kemmangundi Horticultural gardens, or, to be more honest, to their canteen!
We reached the canteen (with Jinu shuttling many times, unfortunately) in time for a nice evening tea / coffee. And then it started raining. The rain never stopped. That was the end of our plans for the evening, or so we thought until some blessed creature suggested we could play dumb charades!
I bet the canteen guy would've thrown us out, had we not been keeping hsi business up by ordering those yummy hot spicy chilly bajjis and beverages every now and then! The amount of noise we made!! And the sort of movie names people came up with!! (I'm looking up that Salim langda stuff x-( , Ashwini, really!!) With Bernard trying to get us spit out an Albert Pinto, Hasnain trying to get his team say Julie-and-Julia and Amith doing that ridiculous Jal-bin-machli-Nritya-bin-bijli sending us into splits of laughter, I'm sure the dumb charades is what really broke the ice between us. And then there was Phani with his Lemony Snicket's!! I think he could have gone on forever had it not been for Nithya and Ashwini! And yeah, while we were at it, the eskimos (Suresh and Vinay, I suppose) and a few others went out with Jinu to see the gardens. I never asked them how it was! How was it, guys?
The plan was that we would wake up early next morning, say at 5, check if it was raining and then continue sleeping if it was or go to Z-point if it wasn't. Thankfully for us, it wasn't.DSC02663 So, Z-point it was. After an early morning tea / coffee session and some spicy news about Phani's 'Who-let-the-dogs-in' episode, we left for the Z-point. Z-point is about an hour trek from our dorms; it is an extraordinary sight in this season with the powerful gusts that are sure to pin you down if you don't sit down (like Jinu got tired of saying to many people including Faizal, Nithya, Vinay, Karthik, Suresh and so many others); it is a leech-predominant territory (much to leech-terminator / leech-yamaraj a.k.a Bernard's delight and to Nithya and Phani's dismay). The trek was beautiful, with those jeep tracks giving way to the narrow slippery paths (where the priority abruptly shifts from saving your feet from leeches to saving y our ass from falling off the cliff, hence the name of the write-up... *brain-wave courtesy: Vinay :D ) and the valley-filled-with-clouds view everywhere. The Shanti falls that comes halfway through the trek looked great though we never halted there. But the sad part was that due to the winds and the dismal visibility we never negotiated the Z-point fully. However, the tradeoff was fair, I suppose, because the sensation of being overpowered by the winds was worth anything! I wish Yogesh hadn't got fever, for I'm sure he'd have loved this trek! Bad luck, buddy...
After returning to the canteen to consume a breakfast of hot idlies and vada, we rushed back to the dorms to pack up and move out. While SanjaDSC02687 na was busy negotiating and nursing a nasty leech bite, the rest of us got the luggage stocked up in the bus and we geared up for the Hebbe with as little to carry as possible (with the exception of packets of salt and snuff, maybe :| ). Most of us even chose to get drenched over carrying rain jackets or umbrellas! Led by Jinu, a pack of dogs and us started out for Hebbbe. A 13 km jeep track exists to Hebbe, but we took a couple of shortcuts that effectively reduced the distance to about 7-8 km. The fog was thick, the wind was chilly, the rain was persistant and the spirit of life was flourishing everywhere. Even the dogs seemed as excited as us! So were the innumerable leeches that got to feed themselves. Nithya's phenomenal leech dance, leech breaks and leech weapons were put to the best of use, I hope...  The trek was downhill and was fun. The few of us who survived to overcome the panic Jinu tried to create about his mysterious 'alternative shortcut'  took that route, and I must say, I'd pin this decision down as one of the best decisions of my life! :D Beautiful slope, and the perfectly lined plantations made the sight picture perfect.
Hebbe is breathtaking. It must be, considering it falls in two stages (Dodda Hebbe and Chikka Hebbe) from a height of 551 feet! A majestic piece of aquatic work placed in the serenity of a lush green backdrop... That's Hebbe Falls for you. The pool of water below that the Hebbe leaves is not very deep in most regions affording everybody the luxury of safely climbing right to the foot of the fall. And those who could swim made the most of their skill here! Feeling the force and the pressure that the falls exerts is quite an experience in itself. I'm sure the puppy Faizal managed to 'help' agrees, eh, Faizal? :D
Climbing up was not quite as easy as climbing down the hill, as most of us found out later. And the fact that the water had made starved hungry folks of us didn't quite improve the situation. The tea-break near the base of the hill which we were supposed to climb was splendid. It was probably here that Suresh gained his 'Leech-Brahma' title when he repeatedly tried rescuing the poor creatures from the torture unleashed by the terminator. Anyway, eventually all of us made it uphill (taking Jinu's steep route this time). And then the hunger started.
The bread-omelettes never could taste better. Neither could tea. The packets of snacks from various people's bag were emptied in a matter of seconds and if anybody were to make a documentary showing similaritieIMG_2858s between hungry wolves catching prey and hungry people eating food, then this is where they should've shot it! Corn mixture, groundnuts, chips packets, kodubale, kobri burfi, Perk, dry fruits, EVERYTHING, ANYTHING!
The fog at any given instant of time in this season make sure you lose track of time. Morning  5 am looks nearly the same as 12 noon or like 5 pm. But the visibility was getting poor. Much poorer than normal, and that meant serious concern for the bus driver. He suggested we should start immediately and that's exactly what we did, started back without halting for lunch in Kemmangundi.
The return journey started with a ungodly chorus of antyakshari. Special mention must be made of Ashok for the wonderful songs he sang. Amith, Vishnu and Nithya were on a roll... I think somebody even gave a brief lecture to poor Vijay who tried to catch a few winks of sleep. The drive was going with perfect sanity until somebody started with teasing Sreeni for something. One thing led to another and to be very brief and not very explicit, a lot of people ended up getting a lot of nick-names including ISI bombers, chemical weapons, ISI agents, Osamas and Obamas, TV9 reporters, AXE effect, etc. This went on till the bus driver decided it had gone far enough and played the “Hale patre, hale kabna” song.
We eventually arrived at Chikmanglur, which was a welcome news as it meant food. A heavy dinner followed by the Mysore Pak that Jinu bought us was all one could hope for at that hour. A bumpy slow ride with a few breaks brought us back to namma Bengaluru at 3:30 am. Majestic bus stop was not deserted even at that hour! People are sure busy in Bengaluru... Anyway, thus ended the Kemmangundi trek.
IMG_2808 I don't know about others, but I enjoyed the trek thoroughly. So I may probably be excused for the abnormally long write-up as well. (And just so I may add to Bernard, Amith and Sreeni, I as good as volunteered for write-up :D ; Not for carrying non-existant ropes and not for some other random volunteering stuff). Thanks folks. Brilliant trip. Refreshing company and a gentleman of an organizer! Cheers to all! :)
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Written by: Aparana
Event organized by: Jinu John
Image Galleries:
Jinu, Suresh, Vishnu, Bala, Faizal

Monday, June 20, 2011

It’s kind of fun to do the impossible... One of them was the trek from Ettina Bhuja to Ombattu Gudda [EB2OG/3]. Since it was my first ever role as an organizer. Was searching how the exploration will be.. Went like this…

The year 2008..

When I look back to recall old memories of trips, motor biking etc....I always feel that I never went anywhere as a trekker. I used to tell myself that how to get more other than it. The word Trekking which had been emerging from those days was adding fuel to my desires of getting into forest areas.  I was searching to pick a trek that will be through a trekking club so that I can be with professionals.

Finally the first trek of my life came...

It was Reverse Ombattu Gudda (OG) Trek, that was organized by Mudassar Khan of BASC on 2009.  I wished to start from the basic level. Didn't know how  will it be. That time BASC was still establishing. When I enquired Mudassar (Mud) about the trek route, details and my ability as trekker for the first time, he answered back positively. What a confidence...Was getting excited day by day... Purchased stuffs like shoes & others...in those days, my backpack used to be heavy...

The day arrived... Conquered Reverse OG in October 2009. Then next two visits to OG peak went as usual...

Was yearning to see how OG peak and the nearby areas will be during monsoon...

Picked Ettina Bhuja to Ombattu Gudda (EB2OG) route since the route has many benefits like peace, type of location that is detached from civilization that too without even a tea stall.

If we expect a tea stall & assuming that someone start it in the route, then the person will put a stall  first, then a small tent, then in the name of “comfort, right to every human” a wife, children to satisfy his need, then setting a small house to provide stay for trekkers whenever help is needed especially with cows, goats, chicken to satisfy our hunger, to provide shelter, expanding rooms……

The list will go on... Resulting in a mini village… have seen the examples in Coorg in a span of ten years of regular visits.

Coming back to line...

Within ten days after EB2OG/2, I asked Mudassar Khan of BASC about doing EB2OG/3. He replied "wait for some more weeks till monsoon fade away.." I couldn't resist. Pleaded Mudassar a  lot..

Even Three days didn't pass...I Asked Mudassar (Mud) once again... Got the answer “No”..asked once more within a day... He shouted “carry on”… :)

aahh!! Did he say Thathaaastu??

EB2OG/3 born…

Granted full freedom, full access to whatever I do!!

Woww.w…. No one is stopping me.. What’s happening here… dear mud... Can u be my boss in future??

While everything was going well & things went as usual. To my surprise, no one from EB2OG/2 responded for EB2OG/3 trek except NCC medalist, who was pushing me to postpone.. My priority was to push the selected EB2OG/2 guys at the top of the short listing process.

Well…monsoon will fade away very soon. NCC Dude.. I promise you that we ll go again that too personally…this time got enough guys in the team with similar interests. The remaining guys Ufff… look like jobless youths dying to do anything... Oh.. what a time I’m having.. Shall I request for new guys with enough experience…no time... Remember the first trek with mud..do some magic.. go..go..

Shared meeting location and other details with shortlisted guys…

Missed calls turned to several SMSing… The word “BASC” in the first few lines  united new guys one by one in Majestic bus-stand. At the same time I realized that some of them were those who were sneaking  to check whether it is the same team, a few minutes ago!!

Few meters away in the same bus stand, another group from BASC was also waiting for the bus to go trekking in different locations. Informed EB2OG/3 team that I will be back in 10-15 minutes to meet that group. Knew some faces in that group, did some handshakes, had little chat, exchanged wishes. At the same time i turned at a guy.

Aahh...it’s you, shouting “Good morning Bangalore” in daily sms…. Registered EB2OG/3 n then skipping it by giving a reason...

Wore a smile, did a formal handshake. He was wishing with precaution words and lectured on how to take care of myself... Stop it!! You idiot…  It would be better if u were in our team and then supporting the team well... Anyways enjoy yours!!

Enough of these guys… go and check whether our bus has arrived in this “bus-santhe”

Reached our team, told everyone “looks like the bus may come late, better if we go by walk the entire night”. Suddenly smile appeared on every faces.

The bus arrived at last. I Requested bus-driver, to drive the bus in the way that we can reach Mudigere as soon as possible. He smiled before starting the engine… Didn’t like to guess the meaning behind the smile. Just went back to my seat, closed my eyes. i was half asleep-half awake during the entire journey. In a moment someone woke me up. I was about to shout “Momm… please allow me to sleep more”. Suddenly realized the situation, conductor of the bus was with red eyes with a wicked smile to inform us that Mudigere town has arrived!!

Got down from the bus, unloaded the backpacks from luggage box of the bus. Went inside Mudigere bus stand to have our morning rituals. I was surrounded by participants every minute to clear their doubts. At the same time we got the assurance from sumo driver through a call. Ordered Idli-chatni in the nearby hotel. We gathered in front of the hotel waiting for parcel and tata sumo. It took nearly 30 minutes to get the parcel. Used the chance to introduce ourself in informal ways. One guy had done many north India trips that too with motorbike. This trek was kind of new to him but i was sure he can do it.  His topic was enough to kill the time!!

In Mudigere town..

In Mudigere town..

When we were loading parcel into our bags tata sumo arrived. Everyone sat inside with comfort. On the way the driver got confused in finding the route to reach our starting point by going in a direction for nearly 5-6km. Thought of warning driver. But kept myself silent to keep the time for imagining how to do, what to do. Finally he was able to take us to the original starting point. When we got down, had a formal chat with sumo driver, thanked him for bringing us at the right time.

Bhairaveshwara temple..

Bhairaveshwara temple..

From the temple premises, I looked at the direction where Ettina Bhuja was supposed to be appearing. Nothing was visible beyond 500 meters. The surrounding area was full  of clouds. Ahemm.. Same situation like EB2OG/2

Starting our journey..

Starting our journey..

Checked whether everyone ready for the trekking. Started from the back side of the temple. Didn’t go for exploring the new trail like how I tried in EB2OG2. Went on the trail made by human and cattle. Reached a small stream. It was still roaring.

Dear Streams.. You look better than the before, stay like this till we finish the trek, don’t be angry all the time..plzzz…

Few ups.. Some more ups.. No sign of EB peak. Was wondering has the time/situation gone bad. It was fully covered with mist, clouds. In previous EB2OG2 we barely managed to see the peak from the same location. This time…. Is this a warning or Is it the time for our mother earth to reach it’s height during Monsoon time.

EB should have shown its beauty from these points(2-3km distance).. But 'mist' was blocking all..

 Participants were getting hungry. They requested to halt for a moment to have breakfast. Ohh.. why didn’t this come to my mind. The wind was still slapping our head, cheeks, cloths, backpacks…. Tiny water drops appeared on our faces, we looked funny to each other.. Like old aged people... That too with mist, tinny water particles all over our body, hands.. Was really wondering is this EB2OG/3 going to be tougher than EB2OG/2

Short break..

Started climbing the steepest part of EB. We climbed some big and uneven rocks and reached the top of the terrain.. No sign of peak’s visibility. Mist was slapping harder. Difficult to guess whether  it was raining or was it coz of wind+mist... when i informed the team that "This is Ettina Bhuja peak". No one were in the state to believe it since the visibility was so poor to identify the shape of ox's hump...Everyone were trying to click their camera from safe location to avoid more damage. For me it was not even worthy. If we try to click from a distance to put everyone in a photo, mist was in our way. Hardly spend 10-15 minutes in the peak, we prepared to get down.

View from the peak

Tiny pink, light blue and yellow colored flowers were blooming all the way… Was feeling kind of happy with the scenarios. 70-80 degree steep climb appeared in the forest. This time it was more slippery. For participants, The muddy stretch where climbing up was a challenge. Finally everyone managed to overcome that trial.

Reached unused jeep trail, filled water bottles with pure water. When participants were doing the same, I looked up to see the sky. It was covered with tree tops with sunrays piercing through them to reach the earth... Inner peace once again…!!

Unknown Jeep trial... :D

Grassland appeared. This time more and more mist in that area. Was really surprised to see what happened to our mother earth. This time was supposed to be minimal when compared to previous month. I was telling myself to always be careful, you can do this time, you don’t have any issues this time so u are free to do whatever u want, just move carefully without stopping your head.

Covered the peak above the forest. Halted in the place where I had lunch with EB2OG2 people. That was just to recall the memories. But for the EB2OG3 guys I was seemed to be searching for the new path!! :D

Misty.. Misty...

Within a couple of minutes I tried to get down from that location which was different than what I did in EB2OG2. The same mist was trying to mislead us. It was challenging task to find the right direction. The compass was showing proper direction. But the terrain was kind of flip-flopping. We blindly walked in a direction. To my luck & updates from fellow participants, none didn’t slip off. At the same time I was praying God to blow the mist for a while to see what’s in the front. God seems to be trying to help us. The strong wind was fighting with heavy mist to allow us to see the real path. In a moment a very strong wind washed the mist away just for 20-30 seconds. GOT THE CLEAR VIEW... Suddenly I noted down all the possible ways. Thanks God, he saved us before we go in the wrong direction.

A main hurdle cleared...My heart was pounding at a fast pace when I looked at the time.

Mist everywhere..

Got a clear view.. L to R (Naveen Alavilli, Shashidahar, Aashish)

 I heard that shoulder level grass was making our move even more tougher..Finally we covered that grassland which is next to EB which is also near to a village. There was much Less mist was in that area. Stopped for a moment, shared snacks/chips with each other before encountering another grassland which was misty.

Short break before entering another grassland at or around 11.30am..

That grassland, those moments were pretty challenging, more mist, more wind… I was really enjoying the moment. That was one of  the best moment with a fresh mind and a happy heart. we were Blindly walking all the way. it was Difficult to see each others with a distance of 20-30 meters. i Was shouting at participants to give a hint of my present location. After a few hours I was informed that some participants lost themselves in the mist,only my shouting was  helping them to realize their path!!

Finally found the used jeep track which goes toward a coffee estate which also leads us to OG. Once again I smiled for a moment after looking at the time. Participants halted on the OG road to have lunch.they wanted a Heavy lunch .i Realized how they were suffering after that long walk.

It was 2.00pm. Nearly one hour was spent in eating, chatting, having fun talk in jeep road...

Lunch time..

On the way to Coffee estate which also lead to OG

At the same time I looked at the path which we covered before. It was astonishing to see that EB was still covered with mist, clouds!! That too in the afternoon at or around 2.30pm. A salute to mother earth for its rules.

EB route is still covered with clouds at 15.00pm (03.00pm) from OG side!!! ufff...

Reached the diversion which goes toward OG peak from the Estate road. The Sun was shining at its best. Finally reached the top. Had a photo session. As per the plan I changed the route from the OG peak toward Gundya which was really new to me since I reviewed those areas through map, printed maps, compass etc.. While getting down towards Gundya, suddenly I looked back at the peak and told myself “Bye bye OG.. Going to miss you...”. Within a second was in shock state, wondering why did I think like that.. till now we are not allowed to step our foot in that area.

Reaching OG peak Step by step.. (Sun blessed us when we were at the OG peak)

 Getting down in very slippery grassland. I was in the front. Didn’t know the real updates of the fellow participants. Later I heard that they were slipping from time to time. A guy damaged his knee which made him slower Sometimes I was asked by fellow participants to reduce my walking pace till the whole group re-unite. At the same time Sun was getting down.

View from OG peak toward Gundya.. Its never ending route.. Loved this..

Finally choose a place which was covered with small trees. Better to call it as nature made Fort. In the center there was enough space to take rest. Those trees were very small in height but their stem was thick enough. Looked like Bonsai type.

we put up a tarpaulin, and took  rest on it. Suddenly it became misty forcing us to assume that it's already dark. It was around 7.00pm. Everyone shared their food. The sumptuous dinner with all sorts of MTR's and a temporary stove. I was looking at the sky. my head was blank. May be I was thinking on” why nothing is in my head”!! :D twinkling stars were trying to show their beauty with the help of wind which was  blowing the mist aside. When they finished their food, I picked mine. Ate quickly. Most of people pulled their sleeping bags out of backpacks and prepared to sleep. Even I was shown the symptoms of tiredness by my body. Pulled sleeping bag and fell asleep.

At or around 11pm, it started to rain heavily. I didn’t care. Just insert myself deeply into the sleeping bag. It was a bit waterproof. Others went inside tarpaulin to protect from rain. it rained continuously for nearly an hour. Dunno what happened after that.

Woke up at 3.00am. Looked like I had enough sleep. My eyes were not ready to sleep again. Pulled myself out of the sleeping bag, looked at the surrounding area. Nothing was visible beyond 100 meters due to mist. But Moonlight was too powerful to tackle with the mist. I could imagine the mist and somewhat trees nearby.it was a Very beautiful scene… it looked like some trees were dipped in milk, washing themselves with water.

Camping point

Forced myself and slept again. May be I was trying to imagine how the second day will be. Dunno when I fell asleep again. I was awakened up by other participants. Had little breakfast. Packed the things and prepared for the second day. When I looked at the participants, they were in the mood to finish the trek as soon as possible.

This morning scene was very different. Came across different locations which was covered with trees on one side,  grassland on the other. My eyes were filled  with these sceneries.

Naveen Alavilli: One of the bravest guys i have ever seen..

Finally thick forest appeared. Before entering, a participant asked how far, how long... I knew the estimated distance. I didn’t want to disappoint him. By showing route map I was telling him if we go till this point then everything will be fine. By the way he responded, He did not seemed to go deeply with the maps. But he was asking me again and again. I was smiling every time he  asked. On one side he was trying to create a group inside a group and trying to oppose my decisions and my movements!! Finally he was asking me to go in another direction in place of my predicted route.

Dense forests, thorny bushes, slippery slopes.. Especially with morning beauty..

His tantrum increased, decided to let him know how the area will be, how the condition will be.

By giving unauthorized permit to him as an organizer, i asked which direction to continue. He pointed in a direction. I giggled since i had  trekked in that area a few months back. kind of dangerous in monsoon time…

Well, we went in that direction,  the forest was with a different kind of look… When we reached the waterfall which was created by the stream (The death of that guy happened in that area, luckily  after our trek). The stream was roaring. I couldn’t see the rocks or stones. If they were visible, they were wet and slippery. Was patting myself for not picking that route.

Lucky.. I didn't pick that trail this time..

 Halted for a moment near Bamboo trees till other participants united us. Ate snacks, may be it was the leftover food we had in our luggage. Everyone were thinking whether to eat it completely or not. Realized that if we delay or if something happens then we have to stay for whole night in that place without food. Decided to move quickly as much as possible. We waited till everyone reached the point and took enough rest.

Within few meters, Kabbinaale stream appeared which is the biggest of all in terms of width. Was inspecting whether it is good to cross in such level. At the same time it started to rain. Remembered Mudassar’s advice. Don’t cross the stream when it’s raining. His words were 100 percent right. Minute by minute the level was increasing. Reached the peak. Was really difficult to imagine the level. At the same time I was enjoying Mother nature’s beauty.

Kabbinaale stream

If we hadn’t diverted the route , we would have saved nearly 30-45 minutes which was enough to cross the stream before it started to rain.

Looked at the participant who did Tantrum. He was in a shocking state. Wished to scold him for the decision he took. Something happened to me. Finally decided not to hurt him. Coz he allowed me to face another challenge which was risky too...

Moreover there were some less experienced trekkers who lost the faith once they saw that ROARING big stream. They sat on the bank with blanked feelings... They started collecting wood to spend the night on the bank of the river. I swear, the situation was really dangerous.. Even I could hear the roaring sound of the stream. I wanted other participants to be safe.

Prepared a rope to cross the stream. After a discussion,i pushed the experienced swimmer to cross the stream first. That trekker cum swimmer tied himself to one end of rope and I held the other end of the rope. He tried to cross, within two steps he was above to be washed away. He was really struggling to balance himself. Lucky I had a strong rope. I pulled the rope slowly and brought him to the bank …

We tried another two times in different locations. Finally my friend told it’s really difficult to cross. Even I knew the same. He thought of skipping the trail for that day. After struggling for nearly 4-5 hours, to our luck water level of the stream got down.

And we were able to tie the rope from one end to another end of stream. The other participants were finding it difficult to balance while crossing. We held their hands till they reached a safe point. After the trek, I searched the map for our exact location. Realized that we went nearly 500 meters from the location which was also my predicted point to reach the stream which was diverted by that fellow participant!! ;) ;)

it was pitch dark when everyone reached the other side of the stream. It was 7.00pm. No one was in the state to pull their camera out into action… Head torches, hand torches were switched on.  it was really very late to reach the end point of the trek. If we  delay then it would be very hard to catch the bus. I was walking in fast pace. But my fellow trekkers... they were asking me to slow down. After struggling for nearly three hours everyone were able to reach the nearby village which was the end point of the trek.

Reaching the end point after three hours continuous night jungle trek...

 I sat in front of a house,  checking the left out leaches all over my body till the remaining trekkers arrived. In this write-up I give less importance to leaches since writing on leaches will lead to another story. At 10.00pm(22.00pm), the last person reached the point. We were in a jolly mood. My mind was in elated state.

I informed a trekker to call Kukke KSRTC control room to inform them about catching the bus in Gundya instead in Kukke town.The advantage was, every bus will pass through Gundya. But because of  the poor network we couldn't contact them. To our luck we were able to catch a bus till Gundya. Once reached, we were inspecting the bus where our tickets were reserved like how RTO people do. Finally a bus arrived which was ours. Some of our seats were filled by the conductor  to make more money!! But we were in the state of getting any seat to get back to Bangalore.

The team..

[L-R(standing)] James, Naveen, Aseem, Tejaswi, Madhu Ramalingam, Shashidhar, Madhu bagur, [L-R (sitting)] Sunil, Ashish, Nitin, Srikanth.

In this incredible two days of trekking journey I thoroughly enjoyed to the core. Cherishing every moment of it which made me to write after a long time!! Would love to go back there once again....

Nothing is a waste of time if you use the experience wisely...A special thanks to the people for their contribution to this blog!!! :)

Written by: Karthik.H.K(Courtesy: http://eb2og3.blogspot.in/)
Image Gallery: Naveen Alavilli, Photo Courtesy: Girish NL, Madhu Ramalingam

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Monday, May 30, 2011

A "Treknic" to Wayanad organized by the Bangalore Ascenders seemed the ideal means to unwind after a hectic week of tight schedules and deadlines. Organized by Jinu at the brink of the monsoon season -with a trek up the Chembra peak, a visit to the Meenmutty Falls & Edakkal Caves on the cards, the stage was set for the perfect weekend getaway.
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A good mix of about 22 first timers and seasoned trekking enthusiasts gathered in front of Shantala Silks (Majestic Bus Station) at 10 PM to board the mini bus that was to take us to our destination. With everybody on board, we set off at about 10:30 PM. The plan was to halt and spend the night at the Bandipur forest entrance which was cordoned off between 9 PM & 6 AM. The bus journey was made interesting with a lively introduction session wherein we got acquainted with our fellow “ascenders”. Most of us were newbie groups of twos and threes while some already knew each other from previous trekking trips. However, Jinu and the other old timers made sure everybody was comfortable and involved in the interaction that ensued. As the night wore on, we began to doze off one by one.
At 6 AM, the bus started moving through the Bandipur forest stretch. The lush greenery and cool morning breeze was a treat for the senses. At the check post, some stopped to take pictures. The next stop was the Adarsh Hotel at Kalpetta where we freshened up and had breakfast before getting back on course. Once refreshed, we set out for our first destination- the Chembra hills. As the bus driver skillfully maneuvered through the sharp bends in the road in the journey through the Ghats, the breathtaking view of the hills under the dense cloud cover and the scenic beauty kept everyone spellbound.
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Our gang !! 3
The bus halted at a point where we had to get permission to trek. As Jinu went to make the arrangements, some of the trekkers had fun with the local kids and clicked photos with them. The journey by bus then continued until we reached the point from where we would be starting our walk on foot to reach the lighthouse- the starting point of our trek. It was a short pleasant walk to the lighthouse with tea estates on either side. From the lighthouse, we began our ascent to the Chembra peak at 10 AM. As we climbed upwards through the rocky and grassy terrain, some of us began to tire out more easily than the rest and required frequent resting breaks. But that did not dampen our enthusiasm and we trudged on. We soon arrived at the heart shaped lake.
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The banks of the lake were grassy with only a single tree in the lake’s vicinity with its branches spreading out across the water. The cloudy skies, light drizzle and cool breeze only added to the romantic setting & weather. This was evident from one trekker’s poses for the camera which had a striking resemblance to the poses given by Shahrukh Khan in the exotic locales of his candy floss movies! (no prizes for guessing who!!) As all of us relaxed near the lake, those with professional cameras kept clicking away at the beautiful scenery which gave us some awesome pictures to cherish as memories.
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After a short break at the lake, we once again started off to the peak. Unfortunately, a few of us could not really make it right up to the top and decided to stop at several levels above the lake. The remaining however conquered the Chembra peak and were witness to the spectacular bird’s eye view of Wayanad.
8While we waited for the bigger group to come down from the peak, the rest of us chatted and enjoyed a nap under the open sky, right at the edge of the cliff! The strong breeze at the edge made us feel like we are floating on air- something that you can never feel within the city limits.
Once the bigger group joined us, we started our descent. This turned out to be quite tricky as the loose mud and stones resulted in quite a few falls. However, the group soon reached the base of the hills and set off towards the vehicle. By this time everybody was dead tired. On the way, we stopped for tea and snacks at a chai shop before boarding the bus that would take us to the home stay for the night. A game of Dumb Charades kept everyone interested.
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The home stay was about a half hour drive from the base of the hills- a cozy cottage called D’Silvas Home Stay at Sulthan Bethary. This was owned by a sweet couple who were extremely hospitable and caring during our stay with them. A huge stuffed black bear in the showcase, leopard skin draped on a wall, a swing in the garden, love birds in a cage and other such antiques added to the cottage’s unique charm. After dinner, the girls fell asleep almost immediately. The same cannot be said about the guys who we heard were mysteriously engaged all night in certain nocturnal activities! (This was the joke going around the next day!)
The following day, after a refreshing walk around the cottage and eating delicious mangoes freshly plucked off the treesIMG_0501 in the garden, we set off for the Meenmutty Falls- the largest waterfall in Wayanad which required a 2 km hike downwards to reach the base of the falls. When we reached the spot, we were first asked to give an account of the plastic items we were carrying as the authorities here are strict regarding anti-littering policies. Once this was done, we started off on our hike through the jungle. Being a Sunday, the place was quite crowded with the localites. Some of the rocks were quite mossy and slippery. We had to constantly hold the ropes alongside the entire downward stretch to make sure we didn’t fall. As we neared the base, we could hear the roar of the water becoming louder until the waterfall came into full view in all its glory.
While some of us sat on the rocks and enjoyed the cool spray of water, the others had a wonderful time playing in the water or swimming. After a while, the group started its climb upwards and soon reached the point where we had started off from after a number of rest breaks. Bottles of spicy buttermilk did the rounds and made everyone feel instantly better after the tiring hike.
The group then stopped for lunch at a place providing homely food. After lunch and relaxing for a bit, we set off in the bus for the Edakkal Caves. The Edakkal Caves9 are two natural cave formations formed by the splitting of a single rock located 1200 metres above sea level. We had to reach the caves before 4 PM after which the entrance would be closed to visitors. The climb to the caves was approximately 3 kms. The inside of the caves had a number of interesting carvings dating back to about 6000 B.C; most of which have not been deciphered yet. The guide explained a few of the carvings and also mentioned that similar prehistoric rock carvings could be seen only in France and was a rare sight. We then clicked a couple of group pictures inside the caves before venturing out. The walk down to the bus was extremely pleasant.
The caves marked the end of a two- day tiring but fun weekend in God’s own country. We then set off for Bangalore by about 6 PM in the bus in order to cross the Bandipur entrance before 9 PM. As we crossed the Bandipur forest, someone in the bus spotted two baby elephants near the road. We stopped to click a few pictures of the same before moving on. We then stopped for dinner at a dhaba near Mysore and stayed there till about 1:30 chatting, listening to music and looking at photos before setting off for Bangalore again. While waiting for dinner to be served, we had a good laugh over a game of "Chinese Whispers". We reached Bangalore at about 4:30 AM where everyone bade their goodbyes at Majestic Station and the group dispersed.
My first trip with the Bangalore Ascenders will certainly go down in my memory lane as a trip to be remembered- thanks to all the wonderful people I met and Jinu’s skills as an organizer. I sure hope to meet some of them again on other interesting trips organized by the Ascenders. Cheers!
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Written by: Sanjana
Event organized by: Jinu John
Image Galleries:
Jinu, Faizal, Suhas, Gururaj, Rahul

Thursday, May 5, 2011

“Not yet Neelima, the next sign board is just round the corner, keep pedaling. “

“We are almost there. The number is less by one more hairpin bend, keep pushing yourself!”

“What kind of an idiot would want to cycle up to Ooty? And what kind of an idiot would want do this in this kind of heat? Oh yea, that idiot goes by the name Neelima.”

“The kids who passed by are waving at you yelling “Good job!” That’s cool and some inspiration. Two more hairpin bends before you stop, okay?”

“If you can’t, nobody can Neelima. Don’t stop yet”

“Twinkle twinkle little star…”

“Damn you Kalhatty!”

“Yay! What? Wow! I made it? Really? No wait. Awesome!!”

Well this and a thousand other conversations I was having with myself while I tried to cycle up to Ooty one weekend in the summer heat of April. And if you don’t know why we talk to ourselves, you should read this post first! Trust me, talking to yourself and taking deep breaths really helps! ;)

IMG_9999_143 Ooty climb was known to be a killer climb among the veterans who regularly come here to train. Especially the Kalhatty climb holds special place in many a heart. Those who have been able to finish the route on cycle will never forget the slogging and the redemption while it stays a haunting dream for those who could not. I have to tell you, I have done few rides before Kalhatty and few more after but so far the claim stands good. Kalhatty is by far the toughest route I rode upon yet.

Ooty can be reached in two ways from Mudumalai Forest Reserve – One is the steeper but shorter route through Kalhatty which measures 36kms and the other one is the longer but less steep route through Gudalur measuring 67kms. Considering the inherent need for challenge of the few not-your-regular-city dwellers, the Kalhatty route was the obvious choice to reach our destination.

The climb hasn’t started yet, or has it?

Day 1:

IMG_9999_166We were off to a very late start from Gundlupet, just outside Bandipur National Park. The clock showed 9 AM as four of us started the ride towards the forest. The first small uphill seemed impossible, my body refused to push forward and the cycle refused to move forward. At this point, riding up to Ooty seemed an idea way too farfetched! But what do we know, all the body needs is some warm up. As soon as we enter Bandipur there is a four hair pin bend uphill to serve as the perfect warm up. There were quite a few uphills and downhills and riding in the forest wasn’t all that pleasant thanks to the scorching sun and the sparsely spread canopy.

Crossing borders, Enter Tamilnadu and the Elephant scare..

A rather dry ride brought us to Tamilnadu border where the forest guards put a break to the speeding wheels. Apparently a foreigner got stamped to death by an elephant last month and hence the forest officials were apprehensive about small groups cycling through the forest. We were to enter Mudumalai National Park now. As per their suggestion, we waited till we were a group of 15 and started the ride towards Ooty through the forest. Mudumalai was much more beautiful and greener compared to Bandipur. The short 4km ride could be best described as awesome. The heat wasn’t coming through the thick canopy above, the road was delightful, the forest was resplendent and there were deer and its ilk here and there.

Take left to burn a lot of calories

IMG_9999_170 Well, many a time I get this question. What do you get by doing all this? I guess it makes me feel alive. No points for guessing that the left turn is going to be a tough one. Well, so be it. We were still riding through Mudumalai to reach Masinagudi to have lunch. We waited for a long time before everyone came. Arvindh knew of a place which served simple but delicious homemade meals. Without a care in the world, four of us had sumptuous meal and as we ate, teams left one after the other to start the climb. We would’ve liked to start as early as possible but the food was simply delectable. Later we were the last ones to start the ride.

The first mile is just as tough as the last mile.

The road goes through some forest and village and then you can see huge mountain rising in front of you. Logic defies reason because reaching such heights on a cycle seems highly implausible. Yet the optimist inside keeps pedaling to reach the first right that marks the start of the Kalhatty climb. As expected, the afternoon heat made the climb twice as hard and climbing hills right after a heavy lunch, not the best of times. But I think, if you last the first kilometer or two you would keep at it till the end. The first kilometer definitely took a lot of determination from my side to not to give up the ride. By now, people had made their decision – those who wanted to ride and those who didn’t.

And then starts the number game

The climb officially doesn’t start till you see the first sign board proclaiming to be 36/36th of the hairpin bends. If not for these boards, I don’t know what would give motivation to the riders. Seeing the number reduce one by one works like a charm and gives you enough motivation to keep pedaling. 36 became 34, 32, 30, so on and so forth. Till we reached the 23rd hairpin bend, the sun was relentlessly doing its job. The clock showed 3.30 PM and few helpful guys in a car offered us water that they were carrying. Soon dark clouds engulfed the sun and the weather turned pleasant just like that. Time was 4.30 or 5.00 and we were at hairpin bend number 14. We found Ravi, Ashish and Nirav taking a break here and after a quick stop all of us resumed the killer climb again. We were 6 in all and it was much better than three of us riding given the warning of locals shouting “Elephants! Elephants!”

IMG_9999_132The never-ending climb

Just as we cycled through the numbered hairpin bends, there came a long never ending stretch of a road which went up and up and up and up. Okay I am exaggerating because it looked never-ending to a tired soul but it would be atleast 500meters of a 45 degree incline. Again I might be wrong in estimating but when you are cycling, that is how it is going to look to you as well. This is just before Kalhatty village, the road that broke everyone’s determination. Each one of us thought we’d cycle all the way to the top but the bike wouldn’t move. Sooner or later we all got to our feet dragging the bike. Good thing is we just crossed 8th hairpin bend. We are this close to completing the super crazy Kalhatty climb.

After this, we cycled across the village and the numbers didn’t reduce much as the altitude increased. We reached hairpin bend number 4 and that’s where I couldn’t pedal anymore. I was way too tired to even talk myself into riding ahead. Ravi was with me and we got down the bike to push through the last mile, more like the last kilometer. 3, 2 and 1!

The coveted Hairpin bend 1/36, here we cometh!

IMG_9999_40There we were. What joy I cannot explain, for I myself do not understand. We took photos, we rested, we discussed as the light disappeared and the cold started setting in. Three others were still cycling to reach the top. We moved base to wait near a small shop nearby and the shared camaraderie especially after enduring a killing ride or trek is always joyful to say the least. We waited for the three to come and spent some more time in cheerful banter. As I look back, it was a good time.

We were still 10kms away from Ooty and the clock showed 8.00PM. All that rest rejuvenated me to an extent and I was able to ride the rest of the distance to Ooty. It wasn’t all uphill but it was a rolling terrain and we managed to reach Ooty fine. Here I also ran into the wildlife expert Sandeep which was a pleasant surprise.

At last, 10 of us managed to finish the Kalhatty climb, on cycles! That is legendary!

Sometimes people ask me, what am I made of? The answer is quite simple – flesh and blood. I am no different than any other. But what I am also made up of is grit and a mind that refuses to let my body stop. Like I said, I am a firm believer of mind over matter philosophy. Let your mind do the work, trust me, it can take you to places, quite literally! :)

We cycle, we pedal.
We trudge. we struggle.

Who are we? We are finishers!

Total Distance Covered – 65kms
Time Taken for the climb (36-1 hairpin bends) – 4 – 4 1/2 hours.

Day 2:

"It was time to enjoy the benefits of yesterdays effort, is what I thought, which is why I refused to use the awesome hydraulic disc brakes on my bike, which is why I flew off the bike and fell on my head during my first high speed downhill crash!"

Reveling in yesterday’s glory wasn’t going to help me in any way. As we took the cycles out of YHAI campus, the road goes straight up. Damn those uphills already! I was told that even though the Gudalur route is going to be downhill for considerable part, it is not going to be as easy as a push of a pedal at the top and nonstop descent after that. The route would be scenic too I was told. But nothing gave me enough motivation. For that day, I hated ascents, even nominal ones.

Today the entire gang of 40 was back on bikes to enjoy the downhill ride. Rekha was cycling too and the photographer in me came out today. Me, Rekha, Nitin and Arvindh decided we would go slowly, very late taking as many photos as possible. Just outside of Ooty, we came across this awesomely beautiful dried up lake bed which now looked like grassland. Tall trees outlined the area and the sky was exceptionally blue, just the way I liked. With two photographers and willing people it was time for photoshoot.

We were trailing behind while Dipankar also joined us. The five of us now reached Kamraj Sagar Dam and it was time for more photos and offroading. Look what my bike can do! ;)

Neelima So far so good. The ride was interesting and then started more ascents. We crossed the Pykara Lake and went ahead to reach Pykara Boat house. The thing is the route is a continuous 10kms of delirious downhill ride. I was all too happy about the first major downhill ride. It was time to enjoy the benefits of yesterdays effort, is what I thought, which is why I refused to use the awesome hydraulic disc brakes on my bike, which is why I flew off the bike and fell on my head during my first high speed downhill crash! The curves were lovely and swaying left to right trying to maintain speed seemed fun but at one such devious curve, I knew there wasn’t enough room for me to take a turn at such speed, I tried to apply brakes but I was already at the point of no return. Fall I had to, the only question was where would I like to land. Once I decided the location, the only thing left for me to do was to apply the front brake which would surely throw me off the bike but at least I’d stop. It was time, I applied the brake and the next moment I was lying on the ground saying a million thanks to my awesome helmet, without which I would’ve sustained serious head injury.

I got up to find I was completely unharmed and so was the bike. The chain came off, I laughed to myself as I fixed it. I started riding again but now I was a changed person, I wasn’t the crazy speed maniac I was a while ago. Instead I was a cautious person going at acceptable speeds with both the hands resting on the brakes. What this actually means is the ride got super boring after this. There were more downhills after this, there were mountains, tea plantations, clouds and more downhill. But too much of downhill can get seriously boring, especially if you are trying to control speed.

IMG_9999_126As we came down, the heat was soaring high. We reached Gudalur checkpost just before Masinagudi after some uphills. Like I said earlier, we were the last ones to come down while most of the team had already left for the 34 km ride to the Gundlupet pitstop where our vehicles were parked.  The afternoon heat was unbearable, even a nominal ascent was getting me super angry and at such a time I was all too confused if it actually makes sense to do the rest of the ride through that sparse forest in this heat. But I was also thinking if I’d finish the last stretch I would’ve finished the entire ride. While I was still in two minds, Dipankar comes to me and tells me to get into TT as it will get tougher from here and I am better off sitting in the TT.

And just like that, it was decided. I was going to do the rest of the ride on cycle.  Rajesh and Ashish were also coming along with me and the three of us decided we’ll complete the entire ride. So, now you know how to get things done from me. Ask me not to do it. ;)

The ride was long, the heat was on, there were uphills but of course nothing compared to Kalhatty. And for someone having done Kalhatty, everything else seems just fine. We finished the 34km ride in 90 minutes to reach the final pitstop.

That’s how the crazy ride ended. I managed a total of 170kms over a weekend which included one of the toughest climbs of South India. After this ride, the one thing I learnt was ain’t no mountain high enough! :)

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Written by: Neelima Vallangi

Date: April, 2011

Photo Courtesy: Neelima Vallangi

Event organized by: Dipanker Paul

Composed by: Swetha Padakandla

The Crew: Aashish, Arvindh, Chandan, Dipankar, Karthik, Neelima, Neerav, Nitin, Ravi, Rajesh