For me the trek really started when I was woken out of my sleep at 5AM in KSRTC bus. Within few minutes we were off the bus and marching in dark terrain guided by Patrick's GPS and our torch lights. It seemed as if a bison or elephant might be lurking at any corner to pounce upon us. That set the theme for rest of the trek. Tuesday, April 1, 2014
For me the trek really started when I was woken out of my sleep at 5AM in KSRTC bus. Within few minutes we were off the bus and marching in dark terrain guided by Patrick's GPS and our torch lights. It seemed as if a bison or elephant might be lurking at any corner to pounce upon us. That set the theme for rest of the trek. Monday, January 27, 2014
Wednesday, December 25, 2013
We didn’t know how much more distance was left to reach Yellapur. It was getting dark and cold. The light just went out so quickly as we were in the forests and winter evening are always short. The roads were the most discouraging part, but we didn’t expect anything better. It would have been better if it wasn’t rolling terrain. It had already been 110kms for the day, first day after all, but my first day ever of riding self-supported with load. Was it a mistake skipping the Dandeli stay and trying to complete two days’ quota in one? As we were about to take one more break we saw the main road, and the sign board too. Yellapur – 4kms!
When I was ten years old, I took my first ever cycling trip. I remember struggling to finish a 25km ride, it took more close to 5 hours to complete. And here I was, a decade later, attempting a 1000+kms self-supported cycling tour across the Western Ghats of Karnataka. This was a dream for me from the time I started cycling. This was on my mind when I was doing the Manali – Leh ride itself. Finally, after pondering about the route for nearly 6 months, I finally decided the route. Dharwad to Madikeri it was, entirely through the ghats. Never did we plan to enter the plains.
The Start!
But that’s how I wanted it to be. And we had started pretty well too. Day one went very well. Just a brief bit of plains starting off from Dharwad and we were inside the dense forests of Dandeli very early, which prompted us to push towards Yellapur that day itself. Now that we had an extra day which we saved, we planned to head to Sathoddi falls, the prettiest waterfall I’ve ever seen. (Un)Luckily it was 25km downhill till the falls, though we enjoyed it, we were thinking about coming back up more often. Sleeping inside the cool, crystal clear water of the falls made me forget all the pain we had yesterday. The backwaters we see on the way to Sathodi must be one of the prettiest too. It was like a huge mirror lying on the ground!
Uttara Kannada is a less explored district in the Western Ghats of Karnataka. Though places are well known, it never gets too crowded. And there is plenty of opportunity to explore. There are innumerable waterfalls in this place! Wildlife too is so much more; we spotted many Langurs and Malabar Squirrels on the way! Though this was a pretty laid back ride, we had to keep going. Heard about couple of new waterfalls nearby but we had to stick to the plan. Magod falls was next on the list. The huge two tier waterfall didn’t disappoint us at all. Many locals told that there isn’t much water but it was more than enough to visit.
On the way to Magod, we stopped by a Govt School in a small village called Nandolli. We planned to visit schools to bring about awareness regarding the importance of cycling in the future, preserving the Ghats and its precious resources. I spoke to around 110 kids. All were very interested about my bike more than what I was speaking. But they were all responsive and looked like they understood what I told them about. The teachers were also very optimistic and told us that they will promote cycling too. 40 out of 110 kids ride a cycle to school, which is a big number! The kids’ reaction to the whole thing was very humbling. Our very small try to make the world a better place. All their smiles and goodbyes can never be forgotten! :)
Magod to Sirsi
Ride from Magod to Sirsi was beautiful. There was a 15km stretch inside thick forests where we didn’t see a single soul. That was pretty much the case in the entire district. Dense forests, small villages, very few people around, just the way we liked it to be! Our accommodation in Sirsi was arranged by my friend whose parents lived there. That is something which I can never forget. We were treated like heroes, fed plentiful delicious local food, given everything we required. We had just about done 350kms by then and had plenty more to go!
The rest of the ride to Shimoga was through the rolling terrain. It gets irritating to ride but not too taxing on the body. The forest eased and opens up to the country side and plantations. Stage one was over before we knew. We had cycled 450kms in a week and I was counting backwards already. Only 10 more days to go!
Shimoga to Dharmasthala!
Stage II from Shimoga to Dharmasthala was for me the best part of the ride. I had carefully chosen the route as to cover all my favourite places. I’d been dreaming on cycling the Shimoga to Thirthalli route ever since I passed through it last year. Riding next to the Gajnur Dam backwaters inside dense forest was as wonderful as I expected it to be. Thirthalli is a beautiful place. We were welcomed by a gorgeous sun set on the banks of Tunga! I was especially looking forward to spending the night in Mr.Sheshadri Dixit Sir’s house. If you don’t know about him yet, you have to read this. He cycled 50000 kms across many countries in the Sub Continent from 1968 to 1971. His story still inspires me in many ways! Even there, we were pampered so much with lots of delicious food and all the care we could get. They had prepared Jamoon for us! The legend himself took time of his busy schedule and spoke to us.
I really enjoyed when he spoke about not many people understanding the hardships of touring on a cycle. I must say what we were doing was just a warm up ride compared to what he did! Next day morning was the best moment of the ride. It didn’t come when we saw the most beautiful place or completed a certain distance. It happened when Sheshadri Sir’s daughters gifted us a box of Cadbury Celebrations. It was such an awesome gesture! For me, this was the essence of touring. It is not just about the beautiful places we cover. It's the pampering from our hosts, the smiles we bring on those children and the village folk, the shout outs we get, the curious questions we are asked, the food, the people, the culture we see and the love we experience that make this journey special!
Through Agumbe!
That day supposed to be our first test of climbing on the tour. Kundadri climb was awaiting us enroute Agumbe. The climb was just 4kms but it was insanely steep. With all the luggage on the cycle, it was super hard. If I stopped, I couldn’t start again as my front wheel kept on lifting up due to the incline. The scorching afternoon heat didn’t help us either. Finally, after many many breaks, we reached the top. We could see the Savehaklu backwaters far away, Narasimha Parvatha too on the other side towards Agumbe where we were headed. We decided to stay on top till the evening and the chocolates ended up as our lunch :)
Agumbe side of Western Ghats must be the least explored part of western ghats in Karnataka. Due to Naxal problems, not many opportunities were there to trek around. I love the town, it has just one road. We were staying in Doddamane, the famous Malgudi Days house. We met a couple from Bangalore who offered to take us to Kundadri again for the sunrise in their car. Getting up at 5.30 after a long day was difficult. So Vishwa dropped out but I was very lucky to witness a superb rise. I always felt Sunrise is better than sunset in Agumbe. Last year too on Narasimha Parvatha we were lucky to get ‘sunrise above the clouds’! That day was supposed to be tough. We were climbing the big ‘Agumbe Ghat’ from the Coast side. We first went down the ghat, enjoyed the downhill like crazy because I knew coming back was going to be kicking ass. We were on our way to Koodlu Theertha falls. It is very secluded and has very bad roads but as usual, it was time for another bath after a long time! I absolutely loved it as we were the only ones around. Crossing the river too was a super experience. Climbing the big ghat was very hyped up. People told us it is very difficult. It is indeed full of hairpin bends but guess what, both of us did the entire climb without a break! May be because we were thinking it was way harder but people coming on vehicles were going crazy seeing us cycle on that route!!
Kudremukh!
The next day was also going to be long. But I was very excited as we were entering Kudremukh National Park. I love the place. The day was long and hard. We entered the park pretty late so we had to hurry up. It was very late in the night when we reached the Kudremukh trek start point. We were riding in pitch dark, creepy sounding forests with the help of a full moon which gave us insane silhouette effect of the mountains around. We reached K’mukh at 9 in the night. Our host was Jinendra, the guy who drives the jeep till the trekking point of the peak. After a tiring previous day we were feeling very lazy the next day, we had a buffer day but we wanted to go as far as possible. We decided to stop 20 kms before Kottigehara as we found a super place to camp for the night. There is a 2000 acre tea and coffee estate in Kelagur near Kalasa. They have a small tea point, just next to a stream so we found it to be perfect! We slept outside their small shelter, in freezing cold but a super experience. Many nearby villagers who work in the estate welcomed us to their homes saying it was too cold sleeping outside, great gestures again, but we were more than happy with the place. I had a -10 sleeping bag anyway! ;) But I must say that was the coldest night I’ve spent in Southern India.
Descending across Charmadi Ghat!
Next day we were going down all the way. After just 5kms of uphill, we started our descent to Dharmasthala, 50kms down the great Charmadi Ghat. The views were fabulous, the road was newly laid and we were going crazy. I hit 60kmph speed. We were ripping!
We were joined by Narsimha from Dharmasthala for the last leg till Madikeri. The ride to Subrahmanya was uneventful until the last few kilometres until we could see great views of my favourite mountain, Kumara Parvatha. We were essentially taking a big round of Pushpagiri Wildlife Sanctuary in stage III. Bisle Ghat was on my mind all through the ride. It was 50kms of uphill ride till Somwarpet. I was very particular about riding here in spite of very bad road conditions and height gain because this part is still not very popular. The road I must say was non-existent but the incline was very manageable for most part. There was a series of uphills as we finished Bisle and the landscape opened up. The road was absolutely deserted entire day and we simply loved it.
The mark of 1000 kms!
Next day we touched the 1000km mark on the way to Madikeri from Kundhalli, a small village where we stayed close to Malhalli falls. Vishwa was very satisfied about reaching this number. 1000 is not a small number and it did feel very satisfying about doing that distance self-supported. For me, I had already got everything and more of what I expected from this ride. Everything went as planned and we got to see so much more than what we had planned. We finished of the ride in the best possible fashion by going to Mandalpatti and enjoying its splendid views and returning to Madikeri. We finished with 1067kms. 17 unforgettable days through my beloved Malnad. I didn’t realize the magnitude of what we had done on the tour as I had already started thinking about my rock climbing trip to Badami the very next day. But after spending a month back here in Bangalore, I realise that we indeed cycled so much!
It might look too formal but it is my duty to name and thank everybody who helped me make this thing happen. Bangalore Ascenders first for giving me an opportunity to organise for them, Sachin from Pedals and Wheels for providing me Panniers and Rack for free, My friends Muggy and Aditya for helping with getting accommodation in their towns, Sheshadri Dixit sir for their help, Girish in MandalPatti and Bee Tee homestay near Kundhalli for charging us so much more lesser than their usual price and finally my riding partner Vishwa for all the help and support throughout the ride.
It was a great experience for me to plan and execute my dream ride. I have so much more respect now for all those people who tour on a cycle, especially all the Himalayan tourers who ride more distance than us in great altitudes. With this, I think you know my next plan. ;) Himalayan self-supported tour. Till then, Happy Cycling :)
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Written by: Sharath Vishnu
Date: December 7th to 24th, 2013
Composed by: Swetha Padakandla
Event organized by: Sharath Vishnu
The Crew: Sharath Vishnu, Vishwa &, Narsimha
Monday, March 18, 2013
Western Ghats has a unique identifications and hidden treasury in it, which a common man can’t reach. Bandaje Arbi Falls is one of those places where water flows through all seasons of the year. Bandaje Arbi Falls located in Charmudi ghat in Dakshina Kannada district is around 12km away from Ujire (close to Dharmasthala) and trek starts from the village Mundajje. One should have strong determination and energy to reach this falls and enjoy the glory of Mother Nature.
On the day I joined Bangalore Ascenders (BASC), I had a list of must visit places in and around Karnataka. Bandaje Arbi Falls & Ballalarayana Durga was also one in the list. When I saw the event registration mail by Niranjan (Event Organizer), i called my friends Sudhakar & Chandrakanth (CK) and asked them to register soon. Due to time constrain CK could not join us. We were not sure of getting short listed to this event as the team size was only 12 members. Luckily we both were able to make our self in the shortlisted participants and got ready to go to Bandaje.
As BASC common point of boarding is Shanthala Silk House, I was much ahead of the stipulated time 9.30pm.
BASC Assemble Point - Shanthala Silk House
Already couple of friends (co-trekkers) were present there (soon everyone joined). I got a warm welcome by Ram, Umesh and later by Niranjan. We left Bangalore around 10.30pm in Tempo Traveler (TT).
We had a brief introduction about our self followed by our previous trekking experience on the way in TT. The team members were Ram, Umesh, Venu, Govind, Sreeharsha, Sudhakar, Harsh, Diptankar, Ashutosh, Satish, Niranjan & I. Govind & Sreeharsha had already done few events with me at Dabbe Falls & Kanoor Kote; I got nine new friends again. Introduction part went on till 12 midnight and everyone slid in to deep sleep. The seats were not so comfortable and I was struggling to sleep…..
Day – 1: 16th March, 2013
We reached Ujire (via Dharmasthala) around 4.30 am. We finished our morning itinerary and had delicious breakfast - Upma & Idly. Packed Chitranna for lunch.
Niranjan explained itinerary for next two days. Bandaje which is around 16km from the start point. Day 1 we need to cover Bandaje and night camping near water falls, 2nd day head towards Ballalarayana Durga, exit at Sunkasale, visit Horanadu and return back to Bangalore.
The plan was , divide the Group into two and first group enters the forest, wait somewhere around 2km from the start point for the second group to join.
Umesh is a local guy who knows Tulu (local language) , first group headed towards Narayan Gowda’s house. We had walked almost 2km in jeep track crossing two houses. He managed the people talking in Tulu and entered into the forest. We had to cross the last house ‘Babu Nayak’ and take right path to proceed towards the Bandaje Arbi falls. The real trek started and we understood that the whole route is steep ascending for almost 15km. The forest was completely thick and green. As per the plan, we trekked around 2km and waited for other group to join.
Being thick forest and no trail; it was very difficult to find out the route and reach the destination on-time.
The path was not so easy, everyone was sweating badly due to high humidity and steep ascend. After several breaks and two hours continuous trek, we reached the water stream around 10.30 am.
We took a dip in water and got relaxed for some time. Water was very cold!!! The steep ascend continued, taking few breaks we reached the grassland. 70 % of Bandaje is covered by thick forest and the rest is open grass land. We decided to have lunch around 12:45 PM at the entrance of the grass land followed by a photography session.
We could view the beautiful falls from grass land and feel to reach falls within short time. But we couldn’t !!.We reached Waterfalls around 3:30PM
We spent some time near falls and then decided to camp near the stream. The plan for the evening was, first to prepare Maggie, relax for 1 hour, soup around 7pm, dinner at 9pm, camp fire, & then entertainment till 10pm.
Umesh, Sudhakar, Ram were busy collecting the wood for camp fire. Few of us took bath in the stream again. Oh my god, water was very cold. After the break, the Maggie preparation started. Umesh was always ahead in all activities, he was able lit the fire. Then came the real part of adventure !!! The rain started rudeness with sound of thunder and lightning. Goodness we had 3 tarpaulins, using 2 we covered our luggage and rest we used it for our shelter. Rain poured for almost one hour and it shattered all our plan. There was nothing to shelter except open sky.
The ground was wet and we had tough time . We all had yummy Maggie and planned the next strategy. We decided to have puliyogare for dinner. We had tasty hot dinner around 8.30pm and decided to sleep.
We had to take care of the camp fire to protect from wild animals. Umesh took the initiatives. I could not sleep well in the night. It was my first experience to sleep in such a place which I could not think at all. Thanks to the rain which made our trek more adventurous.
Day-2: 17th March, 2013
I would like to appreciate capabilities of Ram during the trek. He was one who does not have regular food, less sleep and always ahead in the group. By curiosity asked the secret, understood he is a Yoga patu and does 2 hours every day. I woke up around 4.15am, by the time Ram also got up. We had tough time letting the fire ,Umesh again helped us. Everyone got up by 6 am and finished our morning nature call and headed towards our second destination to conquer the Ballalarayna Durga. The distance of the fort was almost 6-7km from falls and minimum 2 hours journey.
As per plan, we had to reach the fort before the humidity increases. Our journey started around 7 am and the route began as planned before.
Nothing was changed in the ascend, except few steps flat surface. We were able to enjoy the beautiful view of the entire valley. In between we had photography sessions, breaks and chitchat talk. After few kilometer treks, we were able to view the fort but we need to walk almost more than one hour. The last part of the stretch was very difficult and real test for our strength.
We were able to conquer the fort by around 10a.m.
Except the shattered walls nothing much at Ballalarayana Durga, however you can enjoy the Mother Nature and the beautiful valley. We met the king of the fort (forgot his name) who runs the cattle-shed in the fort. He has around 50 cattle and he welcomes all visitors of the fort. We decided to prepare once again for breakfast. King offered his kitchen for preparation and provided the water with some bucks. Everyone was hungry and then had delicious Maggie. We had good time at fort and relaxed for 1hour before proceeding our descend. Understood from the King that the Sunkasale (our end point of the trek) is around 6 km and one hour journey. We decided to take one more hour break and did accordingly.
We left the fort around 11.30 am and all were happy in the spirit of spending almost two hours at the fort.
The pace was fast and we entered forest before reaching the jeep track. Everyone back to their initial enthusiasm and taking very less break reached the Sunkasale at 2 pm. Meantime Niranjan called the driver and asked him to come to Sunkasale. Within one hour TT reached and we boarded vehicle to reach Horanadu.
From Sunkasale, Horanadu is around 30 km. Reached Horanadu by 3.30 pm and decided to take a dip in Bhadra river. Everyone had holy bath in the river and Niranjan asked us to finish the feedback part after taking the bath. We finished vote of thanks and feedback and then headed to Horanadu town. Took Darshana of Horanadu Annapoorneshwari and had Prasad (dinner) and left at 10.30pm to Bangalore. Though we trekked 25-27km in two days, there still remains my desire and passion to do more. I was thinking what will be the next event in BASC for me through out my return journey ….
Thanks to each one of my friends (co-trekkers) who were very co-operative, friendly and also who had taken photographs as and when requested to you all. Special thanks to Niranjan for giving me an opportunity to be a part of this wonderful trek. No words to BASC, motivating and giving opportunity to enjoy the real beauty of Mother Nature.
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Written by: Sagar V
Event organized by: Niranjan
Composed by: Honnegowda and Vinay
Date: 16th & 17th March, 2013
Image Gallery : Ashothosh
The Crew: Venugopal, Sreeharsha, Vidhya Sagar, Sudhakar,Umesh ,Govind Gorur,Harsh,Sathish anand, Ashothosh ,Deeptangan,Ram ,Niranjan
Saturday, April 28, 2012
While climbing up the rock face which was pretty easy by the way, since it was mostly dry and my Reezig shoes gave me good grip on them, I was wondering how it would be like in the rains.


